Eat your greens!
by Kim Stephens
Sometimes I crave greens. I need greens. I must have greens and nothing else will do. And a piece of hot buttered, homemade cornbread does not hurt either.
Being very picky and opinionated about my greens I will tell you one thing - if you do not like them, then you have never had good ones. I can think of several friends, all former “green haters,” that I converted with one correctly prepared meal.
So before you tell me how much you hate them, let me share a few things about one of my favorite foods to grow and why you should give them a shot.
Fall gardening is a much forgotten and sometimes overlooked season. By the time the dog days of summer have settled in and the beans start to die back we still have at least three more months of perfect gardening weather for greens; just do not wait too late to buy your seeds.
Last year I was disappointed to find that one local garden center was more in the business of selling furniture than seeds - they put all their racks away earlier in the season. I had much better luck at coops and seed companies where they still know what a fall crop is.
Most things that we consider greens are all in the Brassica family (the same as cabbages) and share some common traits. They all seem to thrive in a wide range of soils, are cold tolerant, germinate at temps around 45 degrees or higher and are ready to begin harvesting between six and 13 weeks. (Although most people agree that they taste better after a good frost.) But the best thing about them is the powerhouse of nutrition they supply.
Collards, synonymous with the South and believed to have been brought there by slaves, probably saved them from starvation; supplementing their hog and hominy diet with much needed minerals and iron. A traditional Ethiopian dish, yegomen kitfo, is made with collards and buttermilk curds, but I think I would rather save my buttermilk for cornbread. Being both heat and cold tolerant, collards may be planted in spring and fall
The only mustard that most people know comes in a jar. Second only to pepper in the world spice trade, the leaves are often under appreciated as versatile and flavorful. Young ones make a fine addition to salads and although not the most popular cooked green, a handful of mustard will brighten any pot of the others. Red mustard plants are also quite beautiful when used as an ornamental in fall pansy beds.
My personal favorite is kale. It was included in the kitchen gardens in Versailles around 1620 and was referred to as chou frise, or curly cabbage. The hardiest of them all, and also appears to be the most used by cooks of all cultures. No minestrone or white bean soup would be complete without a chiffonaud of fresh kale tossed in toward the end.
There are endless recipes using kale, but I am including my own version of the Southern green pot because I never get tired of it. You will not find any fatback in this one, but you will find lots of flavor with all the health benefits.
Planting greens is easy. Start with weed-free, well-tilled soil and sow the seeds in wide rows, according to directions on the pack, and water in well. Keeping a supply of moisture during the first few weeks until the roots are established is a good idea. Once that happens, you can relax and watch them grow.
At the end of your harvest just spade everything that remains back into the soil and let it turn into “green compost” for next Spring’s garden.
Mean Greens
1 bunch curly kale
1 clove garlic
Pinch of sea salt
Pinch of red pepper flakes
3 Tbl. good olive oil
1 tsp. tamari (see note)
Pinch of raw sugar (optional)
1/3 cup water
1 bunch curly kale
1 clove garlic
Pinch of sea salt
Pinch of red pepper flakes
3 Tbl. good olive oil
1 tsp. tamari (see note)
Pinch of raw sugar (optional)
1/3 cup water
Thoroughly wash and coarsely chop greens. In a deep pan with fitted lid warm oil over medium heat and add garlic. Cook until soft (do not brown). Add kale and red pepper and continue to toss, cooking until greens begin to wilt and brighten in color. Add sugar, tamari and water, mixing well then place lid on and steam to desired tenderness, stirring occasionally. Add salt at end if needed. Serve in a bowl with drizzle of vinegar and fresh corn bread.
Note: Do not substitute soy sauce for tamari as it is an inferior product.

